My system is not decent

Because of this method of using ammonium chloride, copper sulfate, and old vinegar, the ground is formed quickly and thickly, some are solid, and some are easy to fall off when washed with water.

In order to prevent the ground from falling off and protect its luster, it can be protected by waxing.

The method is to cut the wax into pieces with a knife, pour it into kerosene, heat it slowly on the fire, the wax gradually dissolves into the kerosene, and pour it into the bottle when it cools down a little, it will look like a cream after cooling.

When using, pick out some wax paste, stick it on the cotton ball and rub it evenly.

Use this cotton ball to wipe the soaked floor evenly. After the kerosene evaporates to dryness, a layer of hoarfrost-like wax will be left on the floor.

Gently rubbing back and forth with a cotton ball not only increases the protective gloss, but also prevents the ground from falling off.

If it is not ideal once, it can be soaked and waxed repeatedly.

In short, it depends on whether it falls off and the desired gloss, and determines the number of times of reciprocation.

During the soaking process, if you need white-green ground, and gray-black ground is difficult to turn white, you can dilute nitric acid with water to a weak acid, and wipe it on the black ground with a pen.

Weak acid bites will gradually turn white-green.

Then apply the wax paste and soak until the desired color is achieved.

This kind of ground has distinct layers, and the rust color is deep and light, which is more natural.

The fourth method is the method of making new bronze wares made of yellow miscellaneous copper, with a green background on the surface.

Copper acetate, ammonium chloride, glacial acetic acid, smoked vinegar, etc., are prepared in a ratio of 8:8:8:76 to make a liquid medicine, and a green base will form on the surface of the copperware when soaked.

In addition, if the utensil is made of copper, it can be soaked in warm water with potassium sulfide.

If batches of commemorative coins are put into the liquid, a bronze color can be formed in 2 to 3 minutes.

For large utensils, the solution can be thickened, use a brush dipped in the liquid to smear the surface, and apply it repeatedly, the color will be darker every time, and it will turn gray and black after a little time.

Observe the color during operation. When the color is satisfactory, rinse the surface with clean water and dry it, otherwise the color will continue to darken.

Afterwards, rubbing the surface with wax paste can also regenerate some rusty colors.

The fifth method is the bronze method of modern bronzes.

Restoration and imitation of antique bronze wares handed down from Ming and Qing Dynasties to modern times. The bronze color of these wares is elegant and beautiful. Plating method can be used to make an antique appearance.

To supplement the surface of ingots or new utensils, first file and polish it and then copper-plate it.

Then soak in 4-10 g/L weak sulfuric acid solution for 5-15 seconds.

Then use persulfate alkaline solution to oxidize the utensils.

After chemical oxidation, it can be mechanically polished according to the shape, or rubbed with an old coarse cloth.

Then use the rough surface of the leather scraps to rub the light, and the effect of this is better.

In order to improve the corrosion resistance and discoloration resistance of the bronze surface, the polished utensils can be dipped in varnish, and a small amount of benzotriazole (copper corrosion inhibitor) is added to the varnish.

The sixth method is a relatively simple and ideal chemical aging method that is generally used at present.

The first process is to prepare ammonia water and copper carbonate at a ratio of 90:10.

Note that the liquid should be placed in a suitable container, which can be used continuously for a long time.

It is best to choose a low vat or a porcelain altar, with a large rim, which is convenient for putting in utensils of different shapes, and it is also convenient to cover and seal with a plastic cloth to prevent volatilization.

Generally, copper ware is soaked in the solution for a whole day and night, and the surface is black.

If you need to produce some blue rust spots, green-yellow, green-blue lacquer, you can hang them in the container with a rope, and smoke them for about 8 hours, and then blue rust spots will naturally appear.

If the rust spots are not ideal, the time can be extended appropriately.

But the time should not be too long, observe at any time, take it out immediately if you are satisfied, rinse off the floating color with clean water and dry it.

The second process is to spray a layer of quick-drying thin varnish with an oil painting nozzle.

Or spray the surface with thin shellac paint, it is advisable to cover it completely, but not too thick, otherwise the texture of the paint will affect the effect.

After the paint film is dry, you can do soil rust.

Mix chemicals such as ammonium chloride into the thin mud, and add some salt.

Rinse the utensils in the mud, put them in a damp place or cover them with wet sacks for more than a day.

The mud turned earthy green and allowed to dry.

Use a nylon shoe brush to brush off the dry floating soil, leaving a little powdery dry rust and a gray-black base on the surface. Where it falls off, it has a strong sense of layering and looks natural.

At this time also spray a layer, thin varnish or shellac paint.

After the lacquer is dry, rub it repeatedly on the surface with old coarse cloth and leather wool, or use an agate press to polish it, and then roll out the ancient gloss effect of the lacquer.

Such as repairing and supplementing, make some red lacquer, green and white lacquer and other foundations compared with the original.

Before making soil rust, compare the color and luster of the original part locally, and mix the color juice with lacquer (shellac) juice (the color juice mixing method will be introduced in detail later).

Use bean bag cloth (coarse thin cotton cloth) to wrap into a cotton ball.

Dip the color juice on the utensils, and after the quick-drying varnish is overlaid, rub it with an old cloth to get the luster.

Then add soil rust (the method of soil rust is the same as above), which can make a realistic effect.

In addition, the copper powder method can also be used to make surface rust.

Put the copper powder (powder) of the file into the smoker (see the first process), adjust it with a little nitric acid, apply it on the utensils with a brush, and cover them with wet sacks;

The copper powder and the liquid medicine gradually react chemically, and the surface of the utensils is green and rusty. Observe the rust until you are satisfied.

This method has a particularly good effect on smoked miscellaneous copper.

Be careful not to soak and smoke for too long during operation.

Put it in for a few days and leave it alone, the object will be soaked and brittle, and it will break when it is moved.

Especially utensils with thin tires, small pieces, small holes, and seams should be paid more attention to.

This method is used for the matching of copper and iron ware, and the aging of the surface of tin-lead-antimony alloy, glass fiber reinforced plastic, gypsum and other tires.

The main material is a method of using thick shellac paint, mixing a variety of mineral pigments, and touching the rust color layer by layer.

Make the skin color first, and then use the "spotting mud method" to make raised rust spots.

The main pigments are more than 20 kinds such as sand green, ocean green, magenta green, ultramarine blue, zhangdan, red soil, pine smoke, silver beads, cornstarch, floor yellow, stone yellow, and gold powder.

Before making it old, polish the surface of the tire quality, and use a brush to dip in an aqueous solution of ferric chloride.

This substance is a lumpy yellow medicine, which is corrosive and should not be splashed on clothes after being soaked in water and put into a liquid.

Apply it on the surface of utensils, it will turn black immediately after application, rinse off the floating liquid on the surface with clean water and let it dry.

After drying, apply a layer of patent leather juice to increase the adhesion of the surface color.

The pigments are ground first with a small mortar and mixed with a small saucer.

For the first color, put an appropriate amount of sand green in the dish.

Add a little ultramarine blue and Taibai powder, and pour patent leather juice to make it light green.

Use a brush to repeatedly smear on the utensils several times, and the color should be fully applied and even.

Note that after the first coat is dry, apply the second coat.

Then with off-white juice, mainly pine smoke with a little cornstarch.

Dip the juice with a toothbrush, hold the toothbrush in one hand, and move the toothbrush with a knife in the other hand to pluck the rust color on the utensils.

Use the same method to make copper-colored, blue-green, and khaki-colored juices.

In short, compare the base and location of the original, dip it in the color juice and pluck it.

After removing one color, let it dry slightly, and then spray another rust color, and the colors should be pressed together naturally.

After the plucked rust is dry, rub it.