Rebirth Red Mansion Planting Farms
Chapter 41
Ban'er didn't know what kind of medicine she was selling in the gourd, so he hurriedly put on his clothes again, suspiciously took the bag from Qiaojie's hand, put it on the table and opened it, there were several bright clothes neatly arranged inside, and a pair of clothes on top. A gold hairpin, a pendant made of jadeite, two jade swings, and some purses, sachets and other things. Ban'er became more and more puzzled, so he pointed to the pile of clothes and said, "Sister, what are you doing?"
Qiao'er laughed and said: "The red one is a feather satin gown, and the silver-red embroidered three-blue and blue lotus string skirt is a skirt. I don't wear these anymore, and I put them away. It's better to sell them. Then A few gold and silver hairpins are worn in jade, and I can't wear them too much, so let's sell them together. As for these sachets, purses, towels, handkerchiefs and other things, I just think they are cumbersome. It would be best if I could exchange them for some silver. Brother, just take it and give it to others regardless of the price in the market."
Ban'er finally understood very well, rewrapped the bundle with a wry smile, and still handed it back to Qiaoer's hand, saying: "My sister is so troublesome, I really feel sorry for it. It's just that these things are what you usually wear, even if you don't need them right now, keep them. It’s also good to think about it. Although I also know that the family is difficult, but it’s not to the point where I have to pawn my sister’s clothes, my sister should take them back.”
Seeing that he was still trying to be brave at the moment, Qiao'er couldn't help frowning and advised: "Brother is so unsophisticated, since you also know that the family is difficult, why don't you first plan the immediate plan? These extraneous things, to put it nicely, are just for thinking. To put it bluntly, he caused trouble for us if he didn't keep his age. Apart from other things, in terms of my current status, am I the one who can wear these things again? Scarlet, silver red and other colors have always been taboo by the common people. Take it If you sell it, you can get some silver taels, and if you put it here, it will only make dust every day. Brother, don’t worry about it so much. According to my words, it is important. Besides, the injury of uncle and aunt cannot be delayed, and the expenses of the family are also indispensable. If you are really sorry, When uncle and aunt recover, it will not be too late for brother to thank me."
Ban'er was convinced by a few words, thinking that it was not easy for a lady like her to have such a generous and compassionate heart, so she no longer declined, and agreed to take these to the town to pawn and sell them when she went to Heishan Village in the afternoon.
Only then did Qiao'er stretch her brows, and turned back to take care of Wang Liushi with Qing'er.Aunt Li next door has always had a warm heart. Seeing this incident in the Wang family, the two families have always been in frequent contact, so she came to help Mrs. Wang and Liu wash her body and face every day, and the dog called her man Li Daniu to help take care of it.Grandma just took care of three meals a day, and after five or six full days of service, the Wang family and his wife opened their eyes and vaguely recognized the person.
But Qiao'er had to avoid suspicion because Aunt Li was here for several days, and was inconvenient to go to Wang Liu's house, and was afraid of being sent to the dog's side, so she had to discuss with grandma Qing'er. It was Tianqiao's sister who came to help.Grandma and Qing'er both said it was a good idea, so they told Ban'er and asked him to tell the outside world that Tianqiao had gone to the grandfather's village, and when he got home, he called Qiaoer his younger sister.Ban'er had no objection, so everyone agreed.
One day, while everyone was away, Ban'er quietly pulled Qiao'er into the house, took out a few ingots of silver and said: "This is from the blessing of the girl that day, a total of 20 taels. Okay, I'm afraid I can't find a good buyer, so I only gave it seven taels; the gold hairpin is a bit more expensive, it's worth five taels of silver, two jade steps and a pair of pendants, it's worth three taels of silver, and the fan-covered sachet towel Handkerchiefs and other things, five taels of silver. Now that the silver taels are all there, my sister will count them."
After hearing this, Qiao'er calculated in her heart that the amount was right, and the pawn sale was reasonable, but there was one thing that was a little strange, so she pushed the silver tael to Ban'er, and said with a smile: "The big red satin and the silver red skirt The price is reasonable, even the two jade bracelets and the pendant are worthless, I just wonder how the sachet, sachet, handkerchief and handkerchief can be folded in so much silver, it is even more expensive than the bracelet."
Ban'er smiled and said: "There is a reason for this. I was worried about being cheated before, and I asked the shopkeeper, are towels and other things more valuable than jade? Guess what the shopkeeper told me, he said Although the jade swing and the pendant are top-grade, they are not delicate enough. Only the sachet towel handkerchief with a set of fans can be seen to be unusual at the sight of the patterns and stitches. There are nothing more than two types of embroidery that are popular in the market. One is official embroidery. One is for home use, and the home use is no better than that of ordinary shantytowns. The only thing is that the embroidery handed down from families above the third rank is exquisite enough. Among the things my sister gave me, there is a handkerchief for mandarin ducks playing in the water, which is embroidered vividly. , the feathers are delicate and visible, and the water waves are clear and shallow. The shopkeeper couldn't put it down when he saw it. After several times asking where he got it, I just said that someone else bet on us. Now he doesn't come back. The shopkeeper believed it was true and didn't pursue it any further. He also said that if such a thing happened again, he would at least take it to him. Nowadays, there are very few new gadgets in the city, and there are not many good things like that towel. See you soon."
Qiaoer was not surprised, she shook her hands and said, "He really said that?"
Ban'er nodded with a smile, Qiao'er couldn't help but chant Buddha in his heart.It turned out that although this embroidered handkerchief was her personal belonging, it was not made by the people in her room. It was his mother Wang Xifeng who saw Qingwen, a girl in Baoyu's room, was outstanding in needlework that year, and asked her to embroider this handkerchief. I also made a handkerchief with the pattern of "Sixi Ruyi" at the same time, but I don't know where it was left when I ransacked the house.And the fan cover for the sachet is her own handiwork. She said she learned from Ping'er Feng'er and others, but in fact she couldn't do without Qingwen's guidance, so she heard that such ordinary things are sold at a good price. There is no reason to be unhappy.
Seeing how happy she was, Baner was also tainted with three-point lust, and laughed at her and said, "Okay, okay, don't be silly, even though it sold for a good price, it can only be sold once. Now, such embroidery is not available all the time."
Qiao'er felt very familiar when she heard these words, she took the time to think about it, and asked Ban'er, "Is it true that such embroidery can't be bought outside?"
Ban'er raised his eyebrows and said: "From the shopkeeper's tone, it probably means that."
Qiao'er's mind suddenly became depressed, she seemed to be trapped for no reason, only one thought wanted to burst out of her mind, but she didn't know what it was.She just turned around in the room, but Baner made her dazzled, so he hurriedly grabbed her and said with a smile: "When are you going to turn, is it possible that there will be a picture of mandarin ducks playing in the water?"
Suddenly, Qiao Er stopped, bent her eyebrows and said with a sly smile: "You can really turn out a picture of mandarin ducks playing in the water, no, it should be said that there are more pictures of mandarin ducks playing in the water." The silver in Guo Baner's hand.
I don't know what she wants to do, please see the breakdown in the next chapter.
古代衣服材质资料补充一部《红楼梦》,从服装到饰品,从质地到工艺,从款式到色彩,从着装到情景,全方位展现了中华服饰文明成果。据统计,《红楼梦》全书前80回有44回涉及到服和饰,服和饰的词条有173条。后40回有7回共38处写到服饰。全书涉及到服或饰的共51回,主要分布在第3回(20条)、第六回(6条)、第8回(9条)、第49回(22条)、第51回(6条)、第52回(12条)、第63回(9条)、第70回(6条)。
The materials used in the costumes of "A Dream of Red Mansions" are first of all varieties, and second are high-end and expensive, some of which can be said to be rare treasures.The clothing materials that appear in the book mainly include "big red foreign satin", "scattered flowered crepe", "flowered eight balls of Japanese satin", "autumn mink fur", "squirrel fur", "yellow damask", "Feather satin", "white fox armpit", "sable fur", "makeup satin", "python satin", "Western cloth", "moon white yarn", "feather yarn", "Duoluo", "foreign thread" "Silk", "Sea Dragon Fur", "Wild Fur", "Tianma Fur", "Finch Gold Fur", "Lynx Cat Fur", "Cloud Fox Fur", "Wu Fox Fur", "Fragrant Fox Fur" ", "duck skin", "hemp leaf skin", "cement skin", "sheep skin", "sable mink skin", "feather crepe", "pulu", "Gebu", "hemp" and more than 30 kinds supplies.Except for the raw materials of hemp and kudzu grass, quite a few of the materials used are high-end materials, which can be appreciated by ordinary people.Among them, mink fur, white fox armpit, Tianma fur, lynx catkin, and bird gold wool are all rare.
Including raw material work requires very high skills and sewing skills.For example, it is written in the book: "a thread of gold and a hundred butterflies", "multicolored carved silk", "vest with teeth inserted", "two-color golden hundred butterflies wearing flowers", "multicolored silk with flowers and long fringes", "drafting eight balls and arranging fringes". ", "Brocade Ink", "Treasures Inlaid with Silk", "Chaoyang Five Phoenix Hanging Beads", "Red Gold Pan Yingluo", "Shuangheng Bimu", "Two Flowers Twisted Beads", "Pine Flowers and Flowers" , "Zuanzhu", "Crape Silver Rat", "Palace-made Yarn", "Standing Python White Fox Armpit", "Zanying Silver Wing", "Jiangya Seawater Five-clawed Dragon", "Jasper Red", " "Golden python fox armpit", "row ear", "thin fold", "musk pearl", "red gold Wucui", "crimson pattern", "bow tie", "a bucket of beads", "gold embroidery", " Pinching gold and digging clouds", "Green gold flashing green double ring four-in-one", "Double pattern icing on the cake, foreign thread pannier silk", "Dig cloud goose golden li", "Golden embroidered dragon with autumn fragrance color plate inlaid with leaders", "Sable Chin full breast", "Hundred sons engraved with silk", "Panjin color embroidery", "Eight groups of engraved silk", "Chain armor woven with gold silk", "Tiger head with colorful clouds", "Nine dragons", "Panjin inlaid flowers" , "Original Brocade Pipa Lapel", "Yi Wrapped Circle" and so on.These crafts can only be realized by imagination in modern times. There is a famous story in "Dream of Red Mansions" that "Qingwen's disease makes up for the golden fur".It is written in the book that the mothers-in-law were asked to take it out for the darning craftsman, but "not only the capable darning craftsman, but even the tailor and embroiderer and female workers did not know what it was and did not dare to take it."On the one hand, this shows that the bird gold fur is indeed rare, and on the other hand, it also tells readers that the production process of such clothing is very difficult.None of the darners or tailors in the market had seen it and couldn't mend it, but it was done by a pretty maid in the Grand View Garden, and it was done when she was ill.According to the book, Qingwen "looked at it for a while" and said, "This is woven with peacock gold thread. Now we also use peacock gold thread as a boundary line, and I'm afraid it can be passed."The book describes: "Qingwen first disassembled the lining, nailed it to the back with a bamboo bow the size of the mouth of a teacup, then scraped the four sides of the hole loosely with a gold knife, and then sewed two pieces with a needle. , separate the latitude and longitude, and change like a boundary line.
The so-called clothing is a collective term for clothing and accessories. "A Dream of Red Mansions" attaches great importance to the use of ornaments. The ornaments written in the book include "Yingluo Picture", "Palace Sash", "Chai", "Pei", "Golden Crown", "Moving forehead", "Arrow Sleeve", " Pai fringe", "Dropping angle", "Phoenix crown", "Zhaojun suit", "Lezi", "pouch", "Golden Kuixing", "rosary beads", "chaozhu", "boots tuck", "fan pouch", "Sachet", "Ring", "Auspicious Ruyi", "Earrings", "Kirin", "Sweat Towel", "Shaker Handkerchief", "A Stick of Incense", "Tiantian Stool", "Elephant Eye", "Fangsheng", "Lianhuan", "Plum Blossom", "Willow Leaf", "Handkerchief", "Baotou", "Ruyi Tape", "Guanyin Pouch", "Shrimp Bracelet", "Lianchui", "Coral" , "Cat's Eye", "Emerald", "Yizhangqing", "Jasper Pendant", "Long Makeup Bun", "Jade Plug", "Hanyu Nine Dragon Pendant", "Tube Top", "Fat Jade Circle Belt", "Miaochang bun", "Tail rosary beads"... It is really like the ancients said: "A piece of jewelry is worth a thousand gold; the clothes of maidservants and concubines are also treasures from all over the world." There are many types of these accessories. Not to mention that it was a rare thing in the 18th century. Even in the 21st century, except for billionaires, most people still have to go to "jewelry stores" to get the styles in "Dream of Red Mansions". The four seasons are distinct, from head to toe Feet, from inside to outside, have everything you need.Even the bamboo hats, coir raincoats, sandal clogs, and snow hats used in rainy and snowy days are all mentioned one by one.In terms of styles, there are "narrow jacket", "silver jacket", "foreign crepe skirt", "vest", "water boots", "big coat", "flowered silk trousers", "Xiapei", " Cloak", "leather skirt", "cotton skirt", "cloak", "pleated skirt", "python robe", "king hat", "sable fur", "straw shoes", "folding skirt", "poona ", "Silk coat", "belly pocket", "sheepskin gown", "sheepskin boots", "crane cloak", "pleats", "eagle coat", "big fur", "dress trousers", "water field "Little jacket", "red sleeping shoes", "water tights", "water woolen clothes" In "A Dream of Red Mansions", there are not only detailed static descriptions of clothing, but also vivid "dynamic performances", reflecting different characters, different occasions, Different clothes in different seasons. For example, Jia Baoyu’s dress dress: “He wears a purple gold crown with hair inlaid on his head, two dragons grabbing gold and wiping his forehead with Qi eyebrows, and a two-color gold hundred butterfly wearing flowers and big red arrow sleeves. , wearing multicolored silk and knotted with long tassels, the outer cover is a stone blue and flowery Japanese satin fringe gown, and there are small green satin powder-soled court boots. "Wang Xifeng's image in a gown is: "He wears a gold silk bun with eight treasures and pearls on his head, a beaded hairpin tied with five phoenixes in the morning sun, a red gold plate with tassels on his neck, and a golden hundred butterflies on his body. A narrow girdle jacket in red satin with bright flowers, covered with a multi-colored silk engraved stone blue and silver mouse coat, and a foreign crepe skirt sprinkled with emerald flowers. "
In "Dream of Red Mansions", a magnificent art palace, the costumes of the characters are also shining and beautiful.The costumes Cao Xueqin designed for his characters have high aesthetic value no matter in terms of system, style or color.Through the colorful costumes, we see another aspect of the artistic achievement of this immortal masterpiece.In the primitive society, the skin of human clothing was mainly for utilitarian purposes, for body protection and warmth.With the continuous improvement of human civilization, the aesthetic factors of clothing are increasing day by day.After entering the class society, a set of etiquette system for clothing was gradually formed.In China's long feudal society, the clothing system of each dynasty showed class differences and etiquette requirements, reflecting the aesthetic ideals of a certain society and class. The costumes of "A Dream of Red Mansions" (according to the first eighty chapters, the same below) are no exception.But the costumes described in literary works are different from the costumes worn by people in real life after all.In "Dream of Red Mansions", we don't see the flower feathers on the official hats of the Qing Dynasty to mark the official ranks, and we rarely see long robes and jackets. Instead, they are mostly loose clothes and long sleeves from the Ming Dynasty, and sometimes there are traces of clothing from other dynasties.But Cao Xueqin did not dare to overstep whenever the clothing involved the prohibition of the Qing court.This is the characteristic of costumes in A Dream of Red Mansions.
Soon after the Qing soldiers entered the customs, in order to eliminate the influence of the Ming Dynasty and consolidate its ruling position, the rulers of the Qing Dynasty forced the whole country to shave their heads and change their eyes. ].After confiscating his home in the early years of Yongzheng, Cao Xueqin certainly did not dare to take the risk of suicide, so when the characters in "Dream of Red Mansions" encountered formal ceremonial occasions, such as meeting officials and going to court, they dressed strictly according to Qing regulations.Jia Yuanchun chose Fengzao Palace. As soon as Jia Zheng got the news, he hurriedly "changed his clothes and entered the court" to thank him.Yuanchun Sheng's relatives originally went back to her natal family, but because she was the imperial concubine, the whole family "all dressed up according to the style" began to wait for her since Jia's mother.Although there is no positive description of what kind of "clothes" Jia Zheng "changed" and what kind of "big make-up" Jia Mu and others wore, it is certain that they were worn according to the clothing system of the Qing Dynasty.The costumes of King Beijing Jing can best illustrate the problem.He "wears a silver-winged hat with a clean hairpin tassel on his head, a five-clawed dragon python robe from Jiangya sea water, and a white jade red belt".According to the Qing system, boa robes are the most expensive and are used by officials and wives.The five-clawed dragon python robe can only be used by princes, dukes, county kings, and beizi, and other officials have to pick out one claw to wear it even if they are bestowed by the imperial court[1].King Beijing's ability to wear the five-claw dragon python robe shows his royal status.His hat and robes are white, and his belt is red. On the one hand, King Beijing’s trip is a way to sacrifice to Qin Keqing. According to the etiquette of the Qing Dynasty, he should wear plain; Princes and county kings can only use other colors if they are not imperial gifts.In the Qing Dynasty, there was a rule that the royal family (the emperor's own branch) should wear yellow belts, and Jueluo (the emperor's uncles and brothers' branches) should wear red belts[2], so King Beijing wore plain clothes with red belts.
In Chinese feudal society, red was used as a metaphor for beauty.In Cao Zhi's "Jing Si Fu", there is a poem "Husband He is a beautiful woman who is a rotten demon, and she is beautiful and beautiful".Therefore, women's clothing regards red as beautiful and expensive [6].Cao Xueqin seems to be like Jia Baoyu, especially in love with sons and daughters, so most of the costume descriptions in "A Dream of Red Mansions" belong to young and beautiful women.Most of their costumes are based on red.The description of Wang Xifeng's clothing appears three times, and two of them use red as the main color.The third time I saw Lin Daiyu for the first time, she was wearing a "big red cloud satin narrow jacket"; the sixth time I saw Grandma Liu, she was wearing a "pink red flowered jacket" and a "big red crinkle silver leather skirt". The costumes worn by Miss 49 Hui when they gathered for the poetry club in Daoxiang Village were all red.Daiyu wears "a crane cloak with a big red feather crepe surface made from fox skin", Xiangyun wears a "gorilla felt Zhaojun suit", and the three sisters Yingchun, Tanchun and Xichun wear "one color gorilla felt and feather satin cloak". .These young women are all as beautiful as gods, concubines and fairies, and they are all registered in the Taixu Realm in the sky, so they all have beautiful clothes to match them.Red is not only a symbol of beauty, but also a symbol of nobility and auspiciousness.In the eyes of feudal rulers, nobility is beauty, and Cao Xueqin also combined beauty and nobility. No. 19 Going back to Baoyu to attack others, I saw a girl wearing a bright red dress, and when she came back, she sighed for a day when she mentioned it to the attacker.Xi Ren said: "Why are you sighing? I know why you are thinking. I think he is not worthy of wearing red." This shows that common people in feudal society are not worthy of wearing red. **** is not allowed to wear red.For the 49 yuan party, the girls were all dressed up in red, but Li Wan was the only one wearing "a duo lane gown".Do La Nei is expensive, but not gorgeous.This is because Li Wan is a widowed woman, and according to feudal ethics, she is not allowed to wear gorgeous and auspicious clothes, otherwise she will not keep her integrity [7]. "The Great Preface to Poetry" says: "It's all about etiquette, and it's about etiquette." Although it is said here that poetry should conform to etiquette, it actually reflects that feudal society regards etiquette as an important aesthetic standard.The same is true for Cao Xueqin.
Qiao'er laughed and said: "The red one is a feather satin gown, and the silver-red embroidered three-blue and blue lotus string skirt is a skirt. I don't wear these anymore, and I put them away. It's better to sell them. Then A few gold and silver hairpins are worn in jade, and I can't wear them too much, so let's sell them together. As for these sachets, purses, towels, handkerchiefs and other things, I just think they are cumbersome. It would be best if I could exchange them for some silver. Brother, just take it and give it to others regardless of the price in the market."
Ban'er finally understood very well, rewrapped the bundle with a wry smile, and still handed it back to Qiaoer's hand, saying: "My sister is so troublesome, I really feel sorry for it. It's just that these things are what you usually wear, even if you don't need them right now, keep them. It’s also good to think about it. Although I also know that the family is difficult, but it’s not to the point where I have to pawn my sister’s clothes, my sister should take them back.”
Seeing that he was still trying to be brave at the moment, Qiao'er couldn't help frowning and advised: "Brother is so unsophisticated, since you also know that the family is difficult, why don't you first plan the immediate plan? These extraneous things, to put it nicely, are just for thinking. To put it bluntly, he caused trouble for us if he didn't keep his age. Apart from other things, in terms of my current status, am I the one who can wear these things again? Scarlet, silver red and other colors have always been taboo by the common people. Take it If you sell it, you can get some silver taels, and if you put it here, it will only make dust every day. Brother, don’t worry about it so much. According to my words, it is important. Besides, the injury of uncle and aunt cannot be delayed, and the expenses of the family are also indispensable. If you are really sorry, When uncle and aunt recover, it will not be too late for brother to thank me."
Ban'er was convinced by a few words, thinking that it was not easy for a lady like her to have such a generous and compassionate heart, so she no longer declined, and agreed to take these to the town to pawn and sell them when she went to Heishan Village in the afternoon.
Only then did Qiao'er stretch her brows, and turned back to take care of Wang Liushi with Qing'er.Aunt Li next door has always had a warm heart. Seeing this incident in the Wang family, the two families have always been in frequent contact, so she came to help Mrs. Wang and Liu wash her body and face every day, and the dog called her man Li Daniu to help take care of it.Grandma just took care of three meals a day, and after five or six full days of service, the Wang family and his wife opened their eyes and vaguely recognized the person.
But Qiao'er had to avoid suspicion because Aunt Li was here for several days, and was inconvenient to go to Wang Liu's house, and was afraid of being sent to the dog's side, so she had to discuss with grandma Qing'er. It was Tianqiao's sister who came to help.Grandma and Qing'er both said it was a good idea, so they told Ban'er and asked him to tell the outside world that Tianqiao had gone to the grandfather's village, and when he got home, he called Qiaoer his younger sister.Ban'er had no objection, so everyone agreed.
One day, while everyone was away, Ban'er quietly pulled Qiao'er into the house, took out a few ingots of silver and said: "This is from the blessing of the girl that day, a total of 20 taels. Okay, I'm afraid I can't find a good buyer, so I only gave it seven taels; the gold hairpin is a bit more expensive, it's worth five taels of silver, two jade steps and a pair of pendants, it's worth three taels of silver, and the fan-covered sachet towel Handkerchiefs and other things, five taels of silver. Now that the silver taels are all there, my sister will count them."
After hearing this, Qiao'er calculated in her heart that the amount was right, and the pawn sale was reasonable, but there was one thing that was a little strange, so she pushed the silver tael to Ban'er, and said with a smile: "The big red satin and the silver red skirt The price is reasonable, even the two jade bracelets and the pendant are worthless, I just wonder how the sachet, sachet, handkerchief and handkerchief can be folded in so much silver, it is even more expensive than the bracelet."
Ban'er smiled and said: "There is a reason for this. I was worried about being cheated before, and I asked the shopkeeper, are towels and other things more valuable than jade? Guess what the shopkeeper told me, he said Although the jade swing and the pendant are top-grade, they are not delicate enough. Only the sachet towel handkerchief with a set of fans can be seen to be unusual at the sight of the patterns and stitches. There are nothing more than two types of embroidery that are popular in the market. One is official embroidery. One is for home use, and the home use is no better than that of ordinary shantytowns. The only thing is that the embroidery handed down from families above the third rank is exquisite enough. Among the things my sister gave me, there is a handkerchief for mandarin ducks playing in the water, which is embroidered vividly. , the feathers are delicate and visible, and the water waves are clear and shallow. The shopkeeper couldn't put it down when he saw it. After several times asking where he got it, I just said that someone else bet on us. Now he doesn't come back. The shopkeeper believed it was true and didn't pursue it any further. He also said that if such a thing happened again, he would at least take it to him. Nowadays, there are very few new gadgets in the city, and there are not many good things like that towel. See you soon."
Qiaoer was not surprised, she shook her hands and said, "He really said that?"
Ban'er nodded with a smile, Qiao'er couldn't help but chant Buddha in his heart.It turned out that although this embroidered handkerchief was her personal belonging, it was not made by the people in her room. It was his mother Wang Xifeng who saw Qingwen, a girl in Baoyu's room, was outstanding in needlework that year, and asked her to embroider this handkerchief. I also made a handkerchief with the pattern of "Sixi Ruyi" at the same time, but I don't know where it was left when I ransacked the house.And the fan cover for the sachet is her own handiwork. She said she learned from Ping'er Feng'er and others, but in fact she couldn't do without Qingwen's guidance, so she heard that such ordinary things are sold at a good price. There is no reason to be unhappy.
Seeing how happy she was, Baner was also tainted with three-point lust, and laughed at her and said, "Okay, okay, don't be silly, even though it sold for a good price, it can only be sold once. Now, such embroidery is not available all the time."
Qiao'er felt very familiar when she heard these words, she took the time to think about it, and asked Ban'er, "Is it true that such embroidery can't be bought outside?"
Ban'er raised his eyebrows and said: "From the shopkeeper's tone, it probably means that."
Qiao'er's mind suddenly became depressed, she seemed to be trapped for no reason, only one thought wanted to burst out of her mind, but she didn't know what it was.She just turned around in the room, but Baner made her dazzled, so he hurriedly grabbed her and said with a smile: "When are you going to turn, is it possible that there will be a picture of mandarin ducks playing in the water?"
Suddenly, Qiao Er stopped, bent her eyebrows and said with a sly smile: "You can really turn out a picture of mandarin ducks playing in the water, no, it should be said that there are more pictures of mandarin ducks playing in the water." The silver in Guo Baner's hand.
I don't know what she wants to do, please see the breakdown in the next chapter.
古代衣服材质资料补充一部《红楼梦》,从服装到饰品,从质地到工艺,从款式到色彩,从着装到情景,全方位展现了中华服饰文明成果。据统计,《红楼梦》全书前80回有44回涉及到服和饰,服和饰的词条有173条。后40回有7回共38处写到服饰。全书涉及到服或饰的共51回,主要分布在第3回(20条)、第六回(6条)、第8回(9条)、第49回(22条)、第51回(6条)、第52回(12条)、第63回(9条)、第70回(6条)。
The materials used in the costumes of "A Dream of Red Mansions" are first of all varieties, and second are high-end and expensive, some of which can be said to be rare treasures.The clothing materials that appear in the book mainly include "big red foreign satin", "scattered flowered crepe", "flowered eight balls of Japanese satin", "autumn mink fur", "squirrel fur", "yellow damask", "Feather satin", "white fox armpit", "sable fur", "makeup satin", "python satin", "Western cloth", "moon white yarn", "feather yarn", "Duoluo", "foreign thread" "Silk", "Sea Dragon Fur", "Wild Fur", "Tianma Fur", "Finch Gold Fur", "Lynx Cat Fur", "Cloud Fox Fur", "Wu Fox Fur", "Fragrant Fox Fur" ", "duck skin", "hemp leaf skin", "cement skin", "sheep skin", "sable mink skin", "feather crepe", "pulu", "Gebu", "hemp" and more than 30 kinds supplies.Except for the raw materials of hemp and kudzu grass, quite a few of the materials used are high-end materials, which can be appreciated by ordinary people.Among them, mink fur, white fox armpit, Tianma fur, lynx catkin, and bird gold wool are all rare.
Including raw material work requires very high skills and sewing skills.For example, it is written in the book: "a thread of gold and a hundred butterflies", "multicolored carved silk", "vest with teeth inserted", "two-color golden hundred butterflies wearing flowers", "multicolored silk with flowers and long fringes", "drafting eight balls and arranging fringes". ", "Brocade Ink", "Treasures Inlaid with Silk", "Chaoyang Five Phoenix Hanging Beads", "Red Gold Pan Yingluo", "Shuangheng Bimu", "Two Flowers Twisted Beads", "Pine Flowers and Flowers" , "Zuanzhu", "Crape Silver Rat", "Palace-made Yarn", "Standing Python White Fox Armpit", "Zanying Silver Wing", "Jiangya Seawater Five-clawed Dragon", "Jasper Red", " "Golden python fox armpit", "row ear", "thin fold", "musk pearl", "red gold Wucui", "crimson pattern", "bow tie", "a bucket of beads", "gold embroidery", " Pinching gold and digging clouds", "Green gold flashing green double ring four-in-one", "Double pattern icing on the cake, foreign thread pannier silk", "Dig cloud goose golden li", "Golden embroidered dragon with autumn fragrance color plate inlaid with leaders", "Sable Chin full breast", "Hundred sons engraved with silk", "Panjin color embroidery", "Eight groups of engraved silk", "Chain armor woven with gold silk", "Tiger head with colorful clouds", "Nine dragons", "Panjin inlaid flowers" , "Original Brocade Pipa Lapel", "Yi Wrapped Circle" and so on.These crafts can only be realized by imagination in modern times. There is a famous story in "Dream of Red Mansions" that "Qingwen's disease makes up for the golden fur".It is written in the book that the mothers-in-law were asked to take it out for the darning craftsman, but "not only the capable darning craftsman, but even the tailor and embroiderer and female workers did not know what it was and did not dare to take it."On the one hand, this shows that the bird gold fur is indeed rare, and on the other hand, it also tells readers that the production process of such clothing is very difficult.None of the darners or tailors in the market had seen it and couldn't mend it, but it was done by a pretty maid in the Grand View Garden, and it was done when she was ill.According to the book, Qingwen "looked at it for a while" and said, "This is woven with peacock gold thread. Now we also use peacock gold thread as a boundary line, and I'm afraid it can be passed."The book describes: "Qingwen first disassembled the lining, nailed it to the back with a bamboo bow the size of the mouth of a teacup, then scraped the four sides of the hole loosely with a gold knife, and then sewed two pieces with a needle. , separate the latitude and longitude, and change like a boundary line.
The so-called clothing is a collective term for clothing and accessories. "A Dream of Red Mansions" attaches great importance to the use of ornaments. The ornaments written in the book include "Yingluo Picture", "Palace Sash", "Chai", "Pei", "Golden Crown", "Moving forehead", "Arrow Sleeve", " Pai fringe", "Dropping angle", "Phoenix crown", "Zhaojun suit", "Lezi", "pouch", "Golden Kuixing", "rosary beads", "chaozhu", "boots tuck", "fan pouch", "Sachet", "Ring", "Auspicious Ruyi", "Earrings", "Kirin", "Sweat Towel", "Shaker Handkerchief", "A Stick of Incense", "Tiantian Stool", "Elephant Eye", "Fangsheng", "Lianhuan", "Plum Blossom", "Willow Leaf", "Handkerchief", "Baotou", "Ruyi Tape", "Guanyin Pouch", "Shrimp Bracelet", "Lianchui", "Coral" , "Cat's Eye", "Emerald", "Yizhangqing", "Jasper Pendant", "Long Makeup Bun", "Jade Plug", "Hanyu Nine Dragon Pendant", "Tube Top", "Fat Jade Circle Belt", "Miaochang bun", "Tail rosary beads"... It is really like the ancients said: "A piece of jewelry is worth a thousand gold; the clothes of maidservants and concubines are also treasures from all over the world." There are many types of these accessories. Not to mention that it was a rare thing in the 18th century. Even in the 21st century, except for billionaires, most people still have to go to "jewelry stores" to get the styles in "Dream of Red Mansions". The four seasons are distinct, from head to toe Feet, from inside to outside, have everything you need.Even the bamboo hats, coir raincoats, sandal clogs, and snow hats used in rainy and snowy days are all mentioned one by one.In terms of styles, there are "narrow jacket", "silver jacket", "foreign crepe skirt", "vest", "water boots", "big coat", "flowered silk trousers", "Xiapei", " Cloak", "leather skirt", "cotton skirt", "cloak", "pleated skirt", "python robe", "king hat", "sable fur", "straw shoes", "folding skirt", "poona ", "Silk coat", "belly pocket", "sheepskin gown", "sheepskin boots", "crane cloak", "pleats", "eagle coat", "big fur", "dress trousers", "water field "Little jacket", "red sleeping shoes", "water tights", "water woolen clothes" In "A Dream of Red Mansions", there are not only detailed static descriptions of clothing, but also vivid "dynamic performances", reflecting different characters, different occasions, Different clothes in different seasons. For example, Jia Baoyu’s dress dress: “He wears a purple gold crown with hair inlaid on his head, two dragons grabbing gold and wiping his forehead with Qi eyebrows, and a two-color gold hundred butterfly wearing flowers and big red arrow sleeves. , wearing multicolored silk and knotted with long tassels, the outer cover is a stone blue and flowery Japanese satin fringe gown, and there are small green satin powder-soled court boots. "Wang Xifeng's image in a gown is: "He wears a gold silk bun with eight treasures and pearls on his head, a beaded hairpin tied with five phoenixes in the morning sun, a red gold plate with tassels on his neck, and a golden hundred butterflies on his body. A narrow girdle jacket in red satin with bright flowers, covered with a multi-colored silk engraved stone blue and silver mouse coat, and a foreign crepe skirt sprinkled with emerald flowers. "
In "Dream of Red Mansions", a magnificent art palace, the costumes of the characters are also shining and beautiful.The costumes Cao Xueqin designed for his characters have high aesthetic value no matter in terms of system, style or color.Through the colorful costumes, we see another aspect of the artistic achievement of this immortal masterpiece.In the primitive society, the skin of human clothing was mainly for utilitarian purposes, for body protection and warmth.With the continuous improvement of human civilization, the aesthetic factors of clothing are increasing day by day.After entering the class society, a set of etiquette system for clothing was gradually formed.In China's long feudal society, the clothing system of each dynasty showed class differences and etiquette requirements, reflecting the aesthetic ideals of a certain society and class. The costumes of "A Dream of Red Mansions" (according to the first eighty chapters, the same below) are no exception.But the costumes described in literary works are different from the costumes worn by people in real life after all.In "Dream of Red Mansions", we don't see the flower feathers on the official hats of the Qing Dynasty to mark the official ranks, and we rarely see long robes and jackets. Instead, they are mostly loose clothes and long sleeves from the Ming Dynasty, and sometimes there are traces of clothing from other dynasties.But Cao Xueqin did not dare to overstep whenever the clothing involved the prohibition of the Qing court.This is the characteristic of costumes in A Dream of Red Mansions.
Soon after the Qing soldiers entered the customs, in order to eliminate the influence of the Ming Dynasty and consolidate its ruling position, the rulers of the Qing Dynasty forced the whole country to shave their heads and change their eyes. ].After confiscating his home in the early years of Yongzheng, Cao Xueqin certainly did not dare to take the risk of suicide, so when the characters in "Dream of Red Mansions" encountered formal ceremonial occasions, such as meeting officials and going to court, they dressed strictly according to Qing regulations.Jia Yuanchun chose Fengzao Palace. As soon as Jia Zheng got the news, he hurriedly "changed his clothes and entered the court" to thank him.Yuanchun Sheng's relatives originally went back to her natal family, but because she was the imperial concubine, the whole family "all dressed up according to the style" began to wait for her since Jia's mother.Although there is no positive description of what kind of "clothes" Jia Zheng "changed" and what kind of "big make-up" Jia Mu and others wore, it is certain that they were worn according to the clothing system of the Qing Dynasty.The costumes of King Beijing Jing can best illustrate the problem.He "wears a silver-winged hat with a clean hairpin tassel on his head, a five-clawed dragon python robe from Jiangya sea water, and a white jade red belt".According to the Qing system, boa robes are the most expensive and are used by officials and wives.The five-clawed dragon python robe can only be used by princes, dukes, county kings, and beizi, and other officials have to pick out one claw to wear it even if they are bestowed by the imperial court[1].King Beijing's ability to wear the five-claw dragon python robe shows his royal status.His hat and robes are white, and his belt is red. On the one hand, King Beijing’s trip is a way to sacrifice to Qin Keqing. According to the etiquette of the Qing Dynasty, he should wear plain; Princes and county kings can only use other colors if they are not imperial gifts.In the Qing Dynasty, there was a rule that the royal family (the emperor's own branch) should wear yellow belts, and Jueluo (the emperor's uncles and brothers' branches) should wear red belts[2], so King Beijing wore plain clothes with red belts.
In Chinese feudal society, red was used as a metaphor for beauty.In Cao Zhi's "Jing Si Fu", there is a poem "Husband He is a beautiful woman who is a rotten demon, and she is beautiful and beautiful".Therefore, women's clothing regards red as beautiful and expensive [6].Cao Xueqin seems to be like Jia Baoyu, especially in love with sons and daughters, so most of the costume descriptions in "A Dream of Red Mansions" belong to young and beautiful women.Most of their costumes are based on red.The description of Wang Xifeng's clothing appears three times, and two of them use red as the main color.The third time I saw Lin Daiyu for the first time, she was wearing a "big red cloud satin narrow jacket"; the sixth time I saw Grandma Liu, she was wearing a "pink red flowered jacket" and a "big red crinkle silver leather skirt". The costumes worn by Miss 49 Hui when they gathered for the poetry club in Daoxiang Village were all red.Daiyu wears "a crane cloak with a big red feather crepe surface made from fox skin", Xiangyun wears a "gorilla felt Zhaojun suit", and the three sisters Yingchun, Tanchun and Xichun wear "one color gorilla felt and feather satin cloak". .These young women are all as beautiful as gods, concubines and fairies, and they are all registered in the Taixu Realm in the sky, so they all have beautiful clothes to match them.Red is not only a symbol of beauty, but also a symbol of nobility and auspiciousness.In the eyes of feudal rulers, nobility is beauty, and Cao Xueqin also combined beauty and nobility. No. 19 Going back to Baoyu to attack others, I saw a girl wearing a bright red dress, and when she came back, she sighed for a day when she mentioned it to the attacker.Xi Ren said: "Why are you sighing? I know why you are thinking. I think he is not worthy of wearing red." This shows that common people in feudal society are not worthy of wearing red. **** is not allowed to wear red.For the 49 yuan party, the girls were all dressed up in red, but Li Wan was the only one wearing "a duo lane gown".Do La Nei is expensive, but not gorgeous.This is because Li Wan is a widowed woman, and according to feudal ethics, she is not allowed to wear gorgeous and auspicious clothes, otherwise she will not keep her integrity [7]. "The Great Preface to Poetry" says: "It's all about etiquette, and it's about etiquette." Although it is said here that poetry should conform to etiquette, it actually reflects that feudal society regards etiquette as an important aesthetic standard.The same is true for Cao Xueqin.
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