Cannon fodder, he just wants to win [Quick Transmigration]
Chapter 41 Shortboard Surfing
A series of volcanic archipelagos rose up in the vast North Pacific Ocean, and were slapped and eroded by the deep waves of the sea, and finally formed one of the strongest big waves in the world on the northern island of Oahu.
This is Hawaii, the place that has produced a string of legendary surfers.
Xie Bujing didn't expect to come here so soon.
Of course, all of this stems from Ding Haisheng's willingness to provide him with his house in Hawaii for free.
Yes, when Xie Bujing was still worrying about how to earn money to go surfing, Ding Haisheng had already bought a house in Hawaii directly for surfing.
This also means that Xie Bujing only needs to pay for the round-trip air ticket and living expenses.
Although it is still a bit stretched for Xie Bujing now, if he can earn bonuses in the game, these small expenses are nothing.
In fact, surfing competition is a lucrative project.
There is a "bilbong pipe master" competition in Hawaii that specializes in surfing pipe waves with a prize money of 525 US dollars;
There are also seven competitions dedicated to surfing big waves, and the winners can share a prize pool of 350 US dollars;
The World Surf Association also holds the Champions Tour every year, with a total prize pool of 607800 US dollars, and the champion will win a 100000 US dollar bonus.
Although Ding Haisheng said before that surfing did not originate from competition, it is undeniable that surfing has become a highly commercialized sport.
Athletes soar down from huge waves dozens of meters high. This exciting scene is enough to make every viewer's adrenaline soar.
Whether it is success or failure, people are willing to pay for the brave.
The plane landed at Honolulu International Airport, Xie Bujing pushed the suitcase out of the terminal.
From one tropical place to another, Xie Bujing didn’t really feel much. He just felt that the mountains here were higher and the sky was bluer.
"So, why is he here?" Coconut took off his sunglasses and looked at Tao Yu next to him with unkind eyes.
Tao Yu: "Why did you come?"
"I'm here to travel!" Coconut raised his chin, "What about you? Don't tell me you're here too?"
"I'm here to work."
"Work?"
Tao Yu smiled and said, "Bu Jing, tell him why I'm here."
"..." A drop of cold sweat dripped from the corner of Xie Bujing's forehead.
Why are you all arguing about this?
After deciding to come to Hawaii, Xie Bujing asked for leave on his social account, saying that he was going to stop changing.
As a result, I soon received a WeChat from Tao Yu: "You are too wasteful! Since you are going to surf in Hawaii, why don't you take this as a video content update? Why don't you do special planning? Why don't you cut the vlog? You are wasting your own like this Chance?"
Xie Bujing: "I don't have time, and lions don't know how to surf, so they can't take pictures in the sea."
Tao Yu: "I will, look for me!"
……
"So, Tao Yu came with us." Xie Bujing said.
Tao Yu’s family background is good. After graduation, he started working in self-media, and later entered the entertainment industry to shoot variety shows. Even though he is now a video host, his life is still going smoothly, and it is not a problem to come to Hawaii at his own expense.
Tao Yu planned three themes for them, giant wave challenge, local tourism, and food check-in.The main content was focused on the first project. In order to take good pictures of the waves, they even spent huge sums of money to buy a red high-definition camera.
After putting down the luggage at Ding Haisheng's house, he couldn't wait to take the camera to the beach.
The Hawaiian archipelago consists of 4 main islands, and the surfing spots are mainly concentrated in the northern part of Oahu.
In the evening, they drove to the hot wave point—it was the first time Xie Bujing saw such an exaggerated huge wave.
The deafening roar resounded through the sky, and the wave walls collapsed as if the walls collapsed. The huge waves slammed on the reef, splashing strong waves one after another.
It was much more terrifying than the big waves he saw on the day of the typhoon.
But there are still people in the sea.
The surfers screamed and rushed to the top of the wave, stood up for less than a second, and were quickly overturned by the big waves and swept into the bottom of the sea.
Only a very small number of players with outstanding courage and skill can slide down the wave wall smoothly.
In the hazy rainbow, the surfers screamed and raised their hands, successfully completing a wave descent.
Even across the distant coast, Xie Bujing can feel the joy of the other party riding the huge waves.
Xie Bujing's eyes lit up immediately, and his heart beat faster: "I can do it too."
"I can do it too!" A young man next to him was infected by Xie Bujing, and he also yelled.
This was the first time he heard Chinese here, and Xie Bujing turned his head curiously.
"I'm from Singapore, you can call me Li Shuci!" The young man next to him was half a head shorter than him, standing next to him with a surfboard in his arms, with wheat-colored skin, bright smile and bright eyes.
Xie Bujing stretched out his hand: "Hello, my name is Xie Bujing."
"Is this your first time here?" Li Shuci asked him.
Xie Bujing: "Yes."
"Then let's count one, two, three and rush in together, shall we?"
Xie Bujing nodded. He recalled the successful surfing of the surfer just now, and his heartbeat accelerated a little bit.
Li Shuci: "Three, two, one..."
At the end of the countdown, Xie Bujing rushed towards the sea with his surfboard in his arms, but unexpectedly Ding Haisheng caught him by the back collar just two steps away.
Xie Bujing stood on the spot for two seconds, then raised his head in doubt: "What's wrong?"
Ding Haisheng: "You can't go into the water yet."
Xie Bujing: "Why?"
Ding Haisheng: "You have only seen waves less than 3 meters on the beach, and you are not ready for big waves."
Xie Bujing frowned: "You have to try it to know if it works."
"You can try, but are you sure you can pay their price?"
Xie Bujing looked into the distance.
Not far away, someone was knocked down by a big wave, and the nosebleed kept flowing; someone was crushed by the deep sea, and his eardrums were crushed, and he would be accompanied by tinnitus for the rest of his life;
More people jumped into the sea before the big waves came, waiting for the rescue of the lifeboats on the side.
"Do you understand now?" Ding Haisheng's eyes were soft, and there was no doubt about it. "Riding the big waves is a very dangerous act. Any slack will cost you your life."
Xie Bujing glanced at the dejected faces, and finally gave up: "Then what preparations do I need to make?"
Ding Haisheng stretched out four fingers: "Physical fitness, skills, judgment and perception of big waves, and essential courage."
Xie Bujing nodded, not too surprised.
Although surfing and skiing are different, the core of the sport is mostly the same. Excellent alpine skiers also need to have the above qualities.
Ding Haisheng: "Your physical strength is too weak, do a month of adaptive training first."
"Teacher," Li Shuci poked his head in, "Can I train together?"
Ding Haisheng glanced at Li Shuci, noncommittal.
A day later, Xie Bujing and Li Shuci lay prone on the surfboard, chatting while paddling towards the open sea.
Li Shuci is a talkative baby, chattering non-stop as soon as he gets on the surfboard.
"I'm 22 years old. After graduating from college, I decided to take a year off to surf. What about you?"
Xie Bujing: "I am 23 years old and my goal is to become a professional surfer."
"Wow, then you are amazing." Li Shuci said with bright eyes, "But you have a very good teacher, you will definitely be able to do it."
Xie Bujing was a little surprised: "Do you know Ding Haisheng?"
"Yes, he is the first Chinese to win an award at the World Surfing Championships, and he is a famous figure in the surfing circle." Li Shuci's expression was full of admiration, "I heard that he signed a contract with Jinniu and wanted to challenge The 30-meter wave in Nasar, Portugal, but later retired due to physical reasons..."
"There is still time to chat. It seems that you think the intensity is too low." Ding Haisheng sat on the motorboat and said calmly, "Row to the reef ahead in one breath, and no rest is allowed during the period."
Li Shuci made a grimace, but didn't dare to say anything more, just lowered his head and paddled obediently.
Xie Bujing was a little absent-minded, he didn't know before that Ding Haisheng was so powerful.
If it wasn't for his illness, he could represent the country in the Olympic surfing competition.
The other party lent him a house to live in, and also served as his coach. To be able to do this, he probably couldn't let go of surfing.
Xie Bujing decided to collect a little more desire points and exchange points for Ding Haisheng in advance.
But the premise is that he has to become stronger.
Use your actions to influence more people and make them eager to try surfing.
Xie Bujing lowered his head and paddled, hoping to complete the task early and stand on the big waves.
It's not hard to paddle at first, and it's even quite pleasant.But with the boring and repetitive mechanical movements, their arms became heavier and heavier.
An hour later, Li Shuci slowed down.
After 2 hours, Xie Bujing began to feel strenuous, and the soft seawater gradually became heavy, wet and sticky, like thick mud.
After 2 hours and 18 minutes, Li Shuci couldn't bear it any longer and turned over on the surfboard, like a salted fish basking in the sun.
In 2 hours and 45 minutes, Xie Bujing also exhausted his energy.
He never thought that simple paddling would be so tiring, his hands were too heavy to lift, his neck, back, and waist were also sore, and his mouth was full of salty sea water.
Xie Bujing lay on the surfboard, letting the sea water wash over his body, just wanting to completely empty his body and mind.
"Okay, let's row back." Ding Haisheng didn't give them much rest time.
Li Shuci babbled: "Can't you take a motorboat?"
Ding Haisheng smiled: "Can't you pack your bags and go back to Singapore?"
Li Shuci: "Oh. qaq"
While they were chatting, Xie Bujing had already secretly rowed far away by himself.
"Hey, wait for me!" Li Shuci hurriedly chased after him, "Why did you run away by yourself first!"
4 hours of paddling is just the beginning of their day's training. Next, they have to complete the challenge of swimming in the sea for 1 hour and the challenge of holding their breath underwater for 4 minutes.Every evening, even do 40 minutes of yoga practice.
After lunch, Xie Bujing and Li Shuci changed into shorts and rushed to the sea passing by the bustling tourists.
Swimming in the ocean and swimming in a pool are two completely different experiences.
Even if they choose the sea area with the mildest waves in Hawaii, there are still waves that wash over their cheeks, and they will be choked if they are not careful.
And Xie Bujing was stung by a jellyfish.
When he was halfway swimming in the sea, he suddenly found that his arm hurt as if he had been electrocuted.
Xie Bujing immediately raised his hand and found a transparent jellyfish lying on his forearm.
Li Shuci was so frightened that he yelled, and ran away in an instant, and kept checking the waters around him.
Ding Haisheng was not surprised, and said slowly: "This kind of jellyfish is not very poisonous, just peel it off first, and then go back and apply some medicine."
Xie Bujing was about to pick off the jellyfish, but Tao Yu suddenly shouted: "Don't! Don't move! Wait until I shoot it!"
Xie Bujing: "..."
Tao Yu pointed the camera at Xie Bujing, and muttered: "Such a good material, I must take it to make the netizens happy."
Xie Bujing: "..."
For the sake of longing for value, he endured it.
Fortunately, he was not seriously injured, only red marks were left on his arms, and he hardly felt anything after being soaked in sea water.
Xie Bujing didn't go back, and went on to the next challenge—holding his breath underwater for 4 minutes.
"Why did you hold it in for so long?" Li Shuci didn't quite understand, "We don't dive."
"Because you are going to challenge big waves." Ding Haisheng explained, "We are caught in ordinary waves, and we can get up from the bottom soon, but big waves will drag you into the bottom of the sea more than ten meters. Have you ever dived to this depth? ?”
Li Shuci shook his head.
"Most people can already feel the squeeze of sea water on their bodies when they are more than ten meters underwater. A small number of people may even experience dizziness and tinnitus."
"And you are still in a state of motion. The waves will keep your body spinning. Only when your body stops spinning and you float up before the next wave comes, can you get rescued. If you fail to float up within the specified time, then it is very likely that you will die. was swept into the bottom of the sea again by the second wave."
"Holding your breath for a long time can greatly prolong your rescue time."
"So it's like this..." Li Shuci was thoughtful, and began to realize how terrible his behavior of rushing directly into the big waves was.
And Xie Bujing had already experienced that scene on the first day he came to this world. He just took a deep breath and slowly sank into the bottom of the sea.
The first 2 minutes were actually very leisurely. He could observe the coral reefs and colorful small fishes on the bottom of the sea.
After 2 minutes, Xie Bujing gradually felt a little out of breath, accompanied by dizziness, chest tightness and other conditions.
Three minutes later, the concentration of carbon dioxide in the blood surged, his eyes suddenly went black, and his consciousness gradually began to slacken.
I don't know how long it took, everything around was blurred, Xie Bujing seemed to hear the sound of Li Shuci coming out of the water, but it didn't seem to be there, he seemed to be the only one left in the huge world, and everything around him was still disappearing rapidly .
He lost his perception of the world.
After sinking into the sea for 3 minutes and 10 seconds, Xie Bujing's brain activated the fainting protection mechanism.
A second before fainting, Xie Bujing jumped out of the water, his chest heaving rapidly.His blood returned to his heart quickly, his blood rose, and because of his greed for oxygen, his breathing almost choked.
Ding Haisheng: "Are you all right?"
Xie Bujing shook his head, but was still speechless.
"Don't hold your breath for too long for the first time, just take it step by step." Ding Haisheng glanced at the timer and said with satisfaction, "3 minutes and 12 seconds, it's already a very good result for the first time."
Xie Bujing stared at the water in silence, and did not speak for a long time.
The last item is yoga.
This is an exercise that Xie Bujing would practice before, mainly through asanas and meditation to enhance physical fitness and adjust psychological conditions.
The more he practiced, the more Xie Bujing discovered that sports are not just an outlet for the outside world, but also a pursuit of inner peace.
With a sound of "铛——", Xie Bujing slowly opened his eyes.
The setting sun has softened, coating the coconut tree lawn with a layer of golden light, and the crisp birdsong is in the ears, and the waves in the distance are beating the reef...
This kind of training will continue for many, many days.
Two weeks later, Tao Yu sat on Ding Haisheng's electric motorcycle, pointed the camera at Xie Bujing and Li Shuci: "It's only 4 hours! You can do it! Go!"
Xie Bujing and Li Shuci paddled out to sea, and the drone flew higher and higher above their heads, recording three fine waves moving forward without interruption.
After two weeks of training, Xie Bujing completed 4 hours of non-stop paddling, 1 hour of non-stop swimming, and 4 minutes of underwater breath-holding challenges.
Three weeks later, Li Shuci still hadn't finished, but as a casual surfer who had been in the gap year, he automatically lowered his requirements and entered the next stage smoothly.
"Is it time to go into the water?" Xie Bujing looked at Ding Haisheng, his dark eyes filled with impatience.
"Yes," Ding Haisheng handed them a few colorful leaflets, "There are 4 small surfing competitions held on Moon Island this month. If you get the top three in any competition, you have passed the skill training."
"The top three in the Hawaiian surfing competition...?" Li Shuci's hands trembled a little, "Is it so fierce right away?"
Ding Haisheng: "There is no difficulty in small competitions, and there is no prize pool. Even the best people are not willing to participate."
Li Shu resigned from the letter. He was smart enough not to choose the same match as Xie Bujing, but went to the other match.
As a result, he was tortured and came back crying.
"Whoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooow
Two days later, it was Xie Bujing's turn to participate in the competition.
It was a very ordinary sunny day, Xie Bujing went alone and came back alone, his expression did not show any fluctuations during the whole process.
Li Shuci cautiously asked, "How is it?"
Xie Bujing casually took out a championship medal, and said in a calm tone, "Maybe I'm lucky. There really aren't any strong people participating in this match."
Li Shuci: "..."
Is that your luck?That means no one else can compare to you!
Damn it, he shouldn't be compared with a genius!
Perhaps it was because Li Shuci was too depressed, Ding Haisheng took the initiative to comfort him: "Don't be discouraged, Xie Bujing is a talent that most people can't achieve, you are already very good among ordinary people."
Li Shuci: "..."
Is it even more uncomfortable for you to say that? qaq
Even Xie Bujing didn't expect that surfing would become so easy.
After this month of practice, Xie Bujing's physical strength and concentration are unprecedentedly concentrated.What surprised him even more was that the alien feeling of entering the sea disappeared, as if he had already merged with the sea.
At the end of October, Xie Bujing and Li Shuci were finally allowed to enter Dalang.
Before departure, Xie Bujing checked the barometric pressure map. It is expected that there will be a level 5 surge on the north shore of Ouhu Island tomorrow, corresponding to waves of 6-10 meters.
In the early morning of the next day, they drove away looking for the huge waves.
There is no sun today, and the dark clouds are gloomy on the sky. Without the backdrop of the sun and the blue sky, the sea has lost its bright and gentle coat, and it has become gloomy and terrifying.
At this time, Hawaii has not yet fully entered the wave season, but the raging waves have revealed its horror.
The huge waves nearly 10 meters high collapsed and collapsed before their eyes, venting tens of thousands of tons of violent power in the depths of the Pacific Ocean.
The short boards were no longer adequate and they replaced them with longer, more stable gun boards for easier access to big waves.
Before going into the sea, Xie Bujing and Li Shuci sat on the shore and waxed the surfboard.Coarse and uniform wax blocks are distributed on the bottom of the surfboard, which can better increase the friction of entering the water.
During the waxing period, people came to the coast one after another. Seeing Li Shuci's curious eyes, they gave them an encouraging smile.
Li Shuci twitched the corners of his mouth stiffly, with an uncomfortable expression on his face.
Although he has always been eager to challenge the big waves, he didn't realize how terrifying it was until he actually faced the big waves now.
Big waves collapsed suddenly before his eyes, like a terrible scene in a disaster movie.
"Brother, my legs seem to be a little weak." Before going into the sea, he grabbed Xie Bujing's sleeves and whispered, "You, aren't you afraid?"
"I'm afraid too," Xie Bujing stared at the tumbling waves in front of him. His body was frightened, but his heart beat a little faster because of excitement. "But I want to stand on it now rather than being afraid."
And there are a lot of people.
Maybe because the wave season is about to enter, there are more surfers around than in summer.
Even if the waves are so high, there are still countless surfers who gather here from all over the world, just want to experience the feeling of riding the waves.
It must be a great feeling to make so many people linger in their dreams, even willing to pay the price of their lives.
"I'll go first." Xie Bujing paddled out to sea with his surfboard in his arms, when a wave hit his body in an instant.
However, this was just the beginning. From the moment he entered the sea, he never experienced peace again.
The surfboard heaved and heaved in the violent waves, almost giving him the illusion that he was about to be submerged.
He even felt that this wave had already exceeded his estimated 6-10 meters.
10 meters, which is a dividing point for big waves in the industry.
Waves above 6 meters are already big waves, but they are still within the driving range.
Above 10 meters, it is not allowed to drive, and it is necessary to use jet skis to put surfers into the waves.
Xie Bujing paddled from the outside of the wave to the waiting wave area, and witnessed a big wave collapsing rapidly in front of his eyes.
Several people stood on the crest of the wave, but were quickly swept into the sea again, and no one managed to ride it.
Xie Bujing kept paddling with both hands, feeling the rhythm of the sea water with his heart, waiting for the waves to lift him up from behind.
The interval between waves he observed from the shore was 12 seconds.
10 seconds, 5 seconds, 4 seconds, 3 seconds...
Xie Bujing sensed a powerful force surged behind him, pushing his surfboard up from behind, but a huge depression appeared in the sea in front of him.
At that moment, he knew that the big wave was coming.
Xie Bujing's stroke frequency became faster. While paddling, he lowered his head and kept his head close to the surfboard, so as to obtain a better starting speed.
When the crest came to his feet, Xie Bujing got up quickly and decisively!
As if the sea was split, a straight abyss opened under his feet.
And behind him, the crest of the wave is rolling high, engulfing countless surfers eager to conquer it.
The big waves are raging, and more and more people are drowned by it.
Only Xie Bujing stood still, the surfboard was perpendicular to the ground, and flew down the wave wall at an almost impossible angle.
The surfboard under his feet carved a deep gully in the water, as if Moses divided the sea.
On October 10, on the north shore of Oahu, Hawaii, Xie Bujing set off the first big wave in his life.
He will always remember the adrenaline rush.
This is Hawaii, the place that has produced a string of legendary surfers.
Xie Bujing didn't expect to come here so soon.
Of course, all of this stems from Ding Haisheng's willingness to provide him with his house in Hawaii for free.
Yes, when Xie Bujing was still worrying about how to earn money to go surfing, Ding Haisheng had already bought a house in Hawaii directly for surfing.
This also means that Xie Bujing only needs to pay for the round-trip air ticket and living expenses.
Although it is still a bit stretched for Xie Bujing now, if he can earn bonuses in the game, these small expenses are nothing.
In fact, surfing competition is a lucrative project.
There is a "bilbong pipe master" competition in Hawaii that specializes in surfing pipe waves with a prize money of 525 US dollars;
There are also seven competitions dedicated to surfing big waves, and the winners can share a prize pool of 350 US dollars;
The World Surf Association also holds the Champions Tour every year, with a total prize pool of 607800 US dollars, and the champion will win a 100000 US dollar bonus.
Although Ding Haisheng said before that surfing did not originate from competition, it is undeniable that surfing has become a highly commercialized sport.
Athletes soar down from huge waves dozens of meters high. This exciting scene is enough to make every viewer's adrenaline soar.
Whether it is success or failure, people are willing to pay for the brave.
The plane landed at Honolulu International Airport, Xie Bujing pushed the suitcase out of the terminal.
From one tropical place to another, Xie Bujing didn’t really feel much. He just felt that the mountains here were higher and the sky was bluer.
"So, why is he here?" Coconut took off his sunglasses and looked at Tao Yu next to him with unkind eyes.
Tao Yu: "Why did you come?"
"I'm here to travel!" Coconut raised his chin, "What about you? Don't tell me you're here too?"
"I'm here to work."
"Work?"
Tao Yu smiled and said, "Bu Jing, tell him why I'm here."
"..." A drop of cold sweat dripped from the corner of Xie Bujing's forehead.
Why are you all arguing about this?
After deciding to come to Hawaii, Xie Bujing asked for leave on his social account, saying that he was going to stop changing.
As a result, I soon received a WeChat from Tao Yu: "You are too wasteful! Since you are going to surf in Hawaii, why don't you take this as a video content update? Why don't you do special planning? Why don't you cut the vlog? You are wasting your own like this Chance?"
Xie Bujing: "I don't have time, and lions don't know how to surf, so they can't take pictures in the sea."
Tao Yu: "I will, look for me!"
……
"So, Tao Yu came with us." Xie Bujing said.
Tao Yu’s family background is good. After graduation, he started working in self-media, and later entered the entertainment industry to shoot variety shows. Even though he is now a video host, his life is still going smoothly, and it is not a problem to come to Hawaii at his own expense.
Tao Yu planned three themes for them, giant wave challenge, local tourism, and food check-in.The main content was focused on the first project. In order to take good pictures of the waves, they even spent huge sums of money to buy a red high-definition camera.
After putting down the luggage at Ding Haisheng's house, he couldn't wait to take the camera to the beach.
The Hawaiian archipelago consists of 4 main islands, and the surfing spots are mainly concentrated in the northern part of Oahu.
In the evening, they drove to the hot wave point—it was the first time Xie Bujing saw such an exaggerated huge wave.
The deafening roar resounded through the sky, and the wave walls collapsed as if the walls collapsed. The huge waves slammed on the reef, splashing strong waves one after another.
It was much more terrifying than the big waves he saw on the day of the typhoon.
But there are still people in the sea.
The surfers screamed and rushed to the top of the wave, stood up for less than a second, and were quickly overturned by the big waves and swept into the bottom of the sea.
Only a very small number of players with outstanding courage and skill can slide down the wave wall smoothly.
In the hazy rainbow, the surfers screamed and raised their hands, successfully completing a wave descent.
Even across the distant coast, Xie Bujing can feel the joy of the other party riding the huge waves.
Xie Bujing's eyes lit up immediately, and his heart beat faster: "I can do it too."
"I can do it too!" A young man next to him was infected by Xie Bujing, and he also yelled.
This was the first time he heard Chinese here, and Xie Bujing turned his head curiously.
"I'm from Singapore, you can call me Li Shuci!" The young man next to him was half a head shorter than him, standing next to him with a surfboard in his arms, with wheat-colored skin, bright smile and bright eyes.
Xie Bujing stretched out his hand: "Hello, my name is Xie Bujing."
"Is this your first time here?" Li Shuci asked him.
Xie Bujing: "Yes."
"Then let's count one, two, three and rush in together, shall we?"
Xie Bujing nodded. He recalled the successful surfing of the surfer just now, and his heartbeat accelerated a little bit.
Li Shuci: "Three, two, one..."
At the end of the countdown, Xie Bujing rushed towards the sea with his surfboard in his arms, but unexpectedly Ding Haisheng caught him by the back collar just two steps away.
Xie Bujing stood on the spot for two seconds, then raised his head in doubt: "What's wrong?"
Ding Haisheng: "You can't go into the water yet."
Xie Bujing: "Why?"
Ding Haisheng: "You have only seen waves less than 3 meters on the beach, and you are not ready for big waves."
Xie Bujing frowned: "You have to try it to know if it works."
"You can try, but are you sure you can pay their price?"
Xie Bujing looked into the distance.
Not far away, someone was knocked down by a big wave, and the nosebleed kept flowing; someone was crushed by the deep sea, and his eardrums were crushed, and he would be accompanied by tinnitus for the rest of his life;
More people jumped into the sea before the big waves came, waiting for the rescue of the lifeboats on the side.
"Do you understand now?" Ding Haisheng's eyes were soft, and there was no doubt about it. "Riding the big waves is a very dangerous act. Any slack will cost you your life."
Xie Bujing glanced at the dejected faces, and finally gave up: "Then what preparations do I need to make?"
Ding Haisheng stretched out four fingers: "Physical fitness, skills, judgment and perception of big waves, and essential courage."
Xie Bujing nodded, not too surprised.
Although surfing and skiing are different, the core of the sport is mostly the same. Excellent alpine skiers also need to have the above qualities.
Ding Haisheng: "Your physical strength is too weak, do a month of adaptive training first."
"Teacher," Li Shuci poked his head in, "Can I train together?"
Ding Haisheng glanced at Li Shuci, noncommittal.
A day later, Xie Bujing and Li Shuci lay prone on the surfboard, chatting while paddling towards the open sea.
Li Shuci is a talkative baby, chattering non-stop as soon as he gets on the surfboard.
"I'm 22 years old. After graduating from college, I decided to take a year off to surf. What about you?"
Xie Bujing: "I am 23 years old and my goal is to become a professional surfer."
"Wow, then you are amazing." Li Shuci said with bright eyes, "But you have a very good teacher, you will definitely be able to do it."
Xie Bujing was a little surprised: "Do you know Ding Haisheng?"
"Yes, he is the first Chinese to win an award at the World Surfing Championships, and he is a famous figure in the surfing circle." Li Shuci's expression was full of admiration, "I heard that he signed a contract with Jinniu and wanted to challenge The 30-meter wave in Nasar, Portugal, but later retired due to physical reasons..."
"There is still time to chat. It seems that you think the intensity is too low." Ding Haisheng sat on the motorboat and said calmly, "Row to the reef ahead in one breath, and no rest is allowed during the period."
Li Shuci made a grimace, but didn't dare to say anything more, just lowered his head and paddled obediently.
Xie Bujing was a little absent-minded, he didn't know before that Ding Haisheng was so powerful.
If it wasn't for his illness, he could represent the country in the Olympic surfing competition.
The other party lent him a house to live in, and also served as his coach. To be able to do this, he probably couldn't let go of surfing.
Xie Bujing decided to collect a little more desire points and exchange points for Ding Haisheng in advance.
But the premise is that he has to become stronger.
Use your actions to influence more people and make them eager to try surfing.
Xie Bujing lowered his head and paddled, hoping to complete the task early and stand on the big waves.
It's not hard to paddle at first, and it's even quite pleasant.But with the boring and repetitive mechanical movements, their arms became heavier and heavier.
An hour later, Li Shuci slowed down.
After 2 hours, Xie Bujing began to feel strenuous, and the soft seawater gradually became heavy, wet and sticky, like thick mud.
After 2 hours and 18 minutes, Li Shuci couldn't bear it any longer and turned over on the surfboard, like a salted fish basking in the sun.
In 2 hours and 45 minutes, Xie Bujing also exhausted his energy.
He never thought that simple paddling would be so tiring, his hands were too heavy to lift, his neck, back, and waist were also sore, and his mouth was full of salty sea water.
Xie Bujing lay on the surfboard, letting the sea water wash over his body, just wanting to completely empty his body and mind.
"Okay, let's row back." Ding Haisheng didn't give them much rest time.
Li Shuci babbled: "Can't you take a motorboat?"
Ding Haisheng smiled: "Can't you pack your bags and go back to Singapore?"
Li Shuci: "Oh. qaq"
While they were chatting, Xie Bujing had already secretly rowed far away by himself.
"Hey, wait for me!" Li Shuci hurriedly chased after him, "Why did you run away by yourself first!"
4 hours of paddling is just the beginning of their day's training. Next, they have to complete the challenge of swimming in the sea for 1 hour and the challenge of holding their breath underwater for 4 minutes.Every evening, even do 40 minutes of yoga practice.
After lunch, Xie Bujing and Li Shuci changed into shorts and rushed to the sea passing by the bustling tourists.
Swimming in the ocean and swimming in a pool are two completely different experiences.
Even if they choose the sea area with the mildest waves in Hawaii, there are still waves that wash over their cheeks, and they will be choked if they are not careful.
And Xie Bujing was stung by a jellyfish.
When he was halfway swimming in the sea, he suddenly found that his arm hurt as if he had been electrocuted.
Xie Bujing immediately raised his hand and found a transparent jellyfish lying on his forearm.
Li Shuci was so frightened that he yelled, and ran away in an instant, and kept checking the waters around him.
Ding Haisheng was not surprised, and said slowly: "This kind of jellyfish is not very poisonous, just peel it off first, and then go back and apply some medicine."
Xie Bujing was about to pick off the jellyfish, but Tao Yu suddenly shouted: "Don't! Don't move! Wait until I shoot it!"
Xie Bujing: "..."
Tao Yu pointed the camera at Xie Bujing, and muttered: "Such a good material, I must take it to make the netizens happy."
Xie Bujing: "..."
For the sake of longing for value, he endured it.
Fortunately, he was not seriously injured, only red marks were left on his arms, and he hardly felt anything after being soaked in sea water.
Xie Bujing didn't go back, and went on to the next challenge—holding his breath underwater for 4 minutes.
"Why did you hold it in for so long?" Li Shuci didn't quite understand, "We don't dive."
"Because you are going to challenge big waves." Ding Haisheng explained, "We are caught in ordinary waves, and we can get up from the bottom soon, but big waves will drag you into the bottom of the sea more than ten meters. Have you ever dived to this depth? ?”
Li Shuci shook his head.
"Most people can already feel the squeeze of sea water on their bodies when they are more than ten meters underwater. A small number of people may even experience dizziness and tinnitus."
"And you are still in a state of motion. The waves will keep your body spinning. Only when your body stops spinning and you float up before the next wave comes, can you get rescued. If you fail to float up within the specified time, then it is very likely that you will die. was swept into the bottom of the sea again by the second wave."
"Holding your breath for a long time can greatly prolong your rescue time."
"So it's like this..." Li Shuci was thoughtful, and began to realize how terrible his behavior of rushing directly into the big waves was.
And Xie Bujing had already experienced that scene on the first day he came to this world. He just took a deep breath and slowly sank into the bottom of the sea.
The first 2 minutes were actually very leisurely. He could observe the coral reefs and colorful small fishes on the bottom of the sea.
After 2 minutes, Xie Bujing gradually felt a little out of breath, accompanied by dizziness, chest tightness and other conditions.
Three minutes later, the concentration of carbon dioxide in the blood surged, his eyes suddenly went black, and his consciousness gradually began to slacken.
I don't know how long it took, everything around was blurred, Xie Bujing seemed to hear the sound of Li Shuci coming out of the water, but it didn't seem to be there, he seemed to be the only one left in the huge world, and everything around him was still disappearing rapidly .
He lost his perception of the world.
After sinking into the sea for 3 minutes and 10 seconds, Xie Bujing's brain activated the fainting protection mechanism.
A second before fainting, Xie Bujing jumped out of the water, his chest heaving rapidly.His blood returned to his heart quickly, his blood rose, and because of his greed for oxygen, his breathing almost choked.
Ding Haisheng: "Are you all right?"
Xie Bujing shook his head, but was still speechless.
"Don't hold your breath for too long for the first time, just take it step by step." Ding Haisheng glanced at the timer and said with satisfaction, "3 minutes and 12 seconds, it's already a very good result for the first time."
Xie Bujing stared at the water in silence, and did not speak for a long time.
The last item is yoga.
This is an exercise that Xie Bujing would practice before, mainly through asanas and meditation to enhance physical fitness and adjust psychological conditions.
The more he practiced, the more Xie Bujing discovered that sports are not just an outlet for the outside world, but also a pursuit of inner peace.
With a sound of "铛——", Xie Bujing slowly opened his eyes.
The setting sun has softened, coating the coconut tree lawn with a layer of golden light, and the crisp birdsong is in the ears, and the waves in the distance are beating the reef...
This kind of training will continue for many, many days.
Two weeks later, Tao Yu sat on Ding Haisheng's electric motorcycle, pointed the camera at Xie Bujing and Li Shuci: "It's only 4 hours! You can do it! Go!"
Xie Bujing and Li Shuci paddled out to sea, and the drone flew higher and higher above their heads, recording three fine waves moving forward without interruption.
After two weeks of training, Xie Bujing completed 4 hours of non-stop paddling, 1 hour of non-stop swimming, and 4 minutes of underwater breath-holding challenges.
Three weeks later, Li Shuci still hadn't finished, but as a casual surfer who had been in the gap year, he automatically lowered his requirements and entered the next stage smoothly.
"Is it time to go into the water?" Xie Bujing looked at Ding Haisheng, his dark eyes filled with impatience.
"Yes," Ding Haisheng handed them a few colorful leaflets, "There are 4 small surfing competitions held on Moon Island this month. If you get the top three in any competition, you have passed the skill training."
"The top three in the Hawaiian surfing competition...?" Li Shuci's hands trembled a little, "Is it so fierce right away?"
Ding Haisheng: "There is no difficulty in small competitions, and there is no prize pool. Even the best people are not willing to participate."
Li Shu resigned from the letter. He was smart enough not to choose the same match as Xie Bujing, but went to the other match.
As a result, he was tortured and came back crying.
"Whoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooow
Two days later, it was Xie Bujing's turn to participate in the competition.
It was a very ordinary sunny day, Xie Bujing went alone and came back alone, his expression did not show any fluctuations during the whole process.
Li Shuci cautiously asked, "How is it?"
Xie Bujing casually took out a championship medal, and said in a calm tone, "Maybe I'm lucky. There really aren't any strong people participating in this match."
Li Shuci: "..."
Is that your luck?That means no one else can compare to you!
Damn it, he shouldn't be compared with a genius!
Perhaps it was because Li Shuci was too depressed, Ding Haisheng took the initiative to comfort him: "Don't be discouraged, Xie Bujing is a talent that most people can't achieve, you are already very good among ordinary people."
Li Shuci: "..."
Is it even more uncomfortable for you to say that? qaq
Even Xie Bujing didn't expect that surfing would become so easy.
After this month of practice, Xie Bujing's physical strength and concentration are unprecedentedly concentrated.What surprised him even more was that the alien feeling of entering the sea disappeared, as if he had already merged with the sea.
At the end of October, Xie Bujing and Li Shuci were finally allowed to enter Dalang.
Before departure, Xie Bujing checked the barometric pressure map. It is expected that there will be a level 5 surge on the north shore of Ouhu Island tomorrow, corresponding to waves of 6-10 meters.
In the early morning of the next day, they drove away looking for the huge waves.
There is no sun today, and the dark clouds are gloomy on the sky. Without the backdrop of the sun and the blue sky, the sea has lost its bright and gentle coat, and it has become gloomy and terrifying.
At this time, Hawaii has not yet fully entered the wave season, but the raging waves have revealed its horror.
The huge waves nearly 10 meters high collapsed and collapsed before their eyes, venting tens of thousands of tons of violent power in the depths of the Pacific Ocean.
The short boards were no longer adequate and they replaced them with longer, more stable gun boards for easier access to big waves.
Before going into the sea, Xie Bujing and Li Shuci sat on the shore and waxed the surfboard.Coarse and uniform wax blocks are distributed on the bottom of the surfboard, which can better increase the friction of entering the water.
During the waxing period, people came to the coast one after another. Seeing Li Shuci's curious eyes, they gave them an encouraging smile.
Li Shuci twitched the corners of his mouth stiffly, with an uncomfortable expression on his face.
Although he has always been eager to challenge the big waves, he didn't realize how terrifying it was until he actually faced the big waves now.
Big waves collapsed suddenly before his eyes, like a terrible scene in a disaster movie.
"Brother, my legs seem to be a little weak." Before going into the sea, he grabbed Xie Bujing's sleeves and whispered, "You, aren't you afraid?"
"I'm afraid too," Xie Bujing stared at the tumbling waves in front of him. His body was frightened, but his heart beat a little faster because of excitement. "But I want to stand on it now rather than being afraid."
And there are a lot of people.
Maybe because the wave season is about to enter, there are more surfers around than in summer.
Even if the waves are so high, there are still countless surfers who gather here from all over the world, just want to experience the feeling of riding the waves.
It must be a great feeling to make so many people linger in their dreams, even willing to pay the price of their lives.
"I'll go first." Xie Bujing paddled out to sea with his surfboard in his arms, when a wave hit his body in an instant.
However, this was just the beginning. From the moment he entered the sea, he never experienced peace again.
The surfboard heaved and heaved in the violent waves, almost giving him the illusion that he was about to be submerged.
He even felt that this wave had already exceeded his estimated 6-10 meters.
10 meters, which is a dividing point for big waves in the industry.
Waves above 6 meters are already big waves, but they are still within the driving range.
Above 10 meters, it is not allowed to drive, and it is necessary to use jet skis to put surfers into the waves.
Xie Bujing paddled from the outside of the wave to the waiting wave area, and witnessed a big wave collapsing rapidly in front of his eyes.
Several people stood on the crest of the wave, but were quickly swept into the sea again, and no one managed to ride it.
Xie Bujing kept paddling with both hands, feeling the rhythm of the sea water with his heart, waiting for the waves to lift him up from behind.
The interval between waves he observed from the shore was 12 seconds.
10 seconds, 5 seconds, 4 seconds, 3 seconds...
Xie Bujing sensed a powerful force surged behind him, pushing his surfboard up from behind, but a huge depression appeared in the sea in front of him.
At that moment, he knew that the big wave was coming.
Xie Bujing's stroke frequency became faster. While paddling, he lowered his head and kept his head close to the surfboard, so as to obtain a better starting speed.
When the crest came to his feet, Xie Bujing got up quickly and decisively!
As if the sea was split, a straight abyss opened under his feet.
And behind him, the crest of the wave is rolling high, engulfing countless surfers eager to conquer it.
The big waves are raging, and more and more people are drowned by it.
Only Xie Bujing stood still, the surfboard was perpendicular to the ground, and flew down the wave wall at an almost impossible angle.
The surfboard under his feet carved a deep gully in the water, as if Moses divided the sea.
On October 10, on the north shore of Oahu, Hawaii, Xie Bujing set off the first big wave in his life.
He will always remember the adrenaline rush.
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