Reborn fashion designer

Chapter 163 The development of the collar (please order!)

"Hey, you rip-off guy."

Pushing open the door, Little John, carrying two cups of coffee, pushed open the glass door of Xiangyang's office and said angrily: "Fortunately, Sarah is not as considerate as you."

Xiang Yang sneered, "Give me the card and coffee."

"Haha," Little John smiled disdainfully. He came to the desk and put down the coffee. He reluctantly took out Xiangyang's VISA credit card from his pocket and handed it to the other party, "Here you go, who cares."

"That's the best."

Xiangyang quickly took the card back and put it on the table.

"Stingy guy." Little John rolled his eyes at Xiang Yang, took out a stack of sketches he had designed from his wallet, stamped it on his VISA credit card, and said:

"Let's see if there is anything wrong with the design. I worked overtime to draw it.

That's all until I get back. "

"rare."

Xiang Yang sighed with emotion. After taking the drawings, he flipped through a few men's clothing sketches designed by Little John and commented:

"It's not bad. It fits my aesthetic and the clothing requirements of that period."

"It's just not bad?!" Little John was speechless. After taking a sip of coffee, he tapped the table with his fingers and said, "Can you please take a closer look? That Peter Pan collar alone is very artistic."

"Okay." Xiang Yang rolled his eyes at Little John.

It’s just a Peter Pan collar, it’s not enough to show off.

In order to prove his confidence, Xiang Yang also took out his work from his design sketch. The collar of the plain white dress also had a Peter Pan collar.

"You are cheating!"

Seeing Xiang Yang's sketch, Little John was very unconvinced.

When it comes to collars, Xiangyang naturally thinks of the 'left collar and right gusset' engraved in Chinese culture.

As for Chinese collars, with the integration of different dynasties and different cultures, the curved collars, round collars, straight collars, stand collars, bare collars, and lapels that have been born one after another are not as important as the earliest cross collars.

Because it started in the Yin and Shang Dynasties, "left collar and right collar", that is, cross collar, is an important feature of Chinese national costumes.

It originates from the large placket at that time, also called the oblique placket, which required the left placket to cover the right placket and the neckline to extend to the right. During the same period, Chinese clothing also had double plackets. Dual placket means that the left and right plackets are parallel to each other, but If they intersect (cross over), the left collar must cover the right collar.

Whether it is oracle bone inscriptions, bronze inscriptions, small seal script, or regular script, the word "clothes" for clothes evolved from this image of handing over collars.

With the integration of cultures and the development of fabrics, during the Han and Jin Dynasties, Qu Ling began to appear on the historical stage.

It has a neckline that hugs the neck and looks like a turtleneck at first glance.

Some people also speculate that the round collar common in Hanfu culture evolved from the curved collar, but in fact, as early as the Shang Dynasty, the round collar and the cross collar appeared at the same time.

It has significant class divisions.During the Shang Dynasty, the middle and upper classes wore cross-collar tops, while slaves wore round-neck tops.

Like the curved collar in the Han and Jin Dynasties, it gradually evolved into inner clothing. It was not until the Sui and Tang Dynasties that the round collar robe became popular and became the official uniform of the Song and Ming Dynasties.

During the same period, reverse collars appeared on Chinese clothing. This style of women's clothing only appeared in paintings, and the unearthed objects only appeared on men's clothing.If clothes with this kind of neckline have their necklines closed when they are laid flat, there is no gap in the middle, and the top of the neckline is triangular, it is also called a joint collar.

Clothing with joint collars appeared more often in the Ming Dynasty. During the same period, there was also a very delicate collar called square collar.

Square collar and stand-up collar are the most distinctive collar types in the Ming Dynasty. Queen Wanli's Baiziyi has a square collar. It and stand-up collar basically appear on cardigans. Due to the size, the stand-up collar can be folded down and becomes a lapel.

As for the bare collar, it was a 'limited edition' during the Tang Dynasty. It had two necklines, U-shaped and W-shaped. The W-shaped collar was also called a 'chicken heart collar'. Like it, the lapels in the Tang Dynasty also had a distinctive The characteristics of Hufu are different from the stand-up lapels of the Ming Dynasty. The lapels of the Tang Dynasty were accompanied by exquisite patterns.

It is different from the traditional Chinese collar with a history of more than 3000 years.

The history of European collars. Before the Renaissance, European clothes were more of an 'open' design.

It was not until around the 15th century (the end of the Renaissance) that Europeans began to figure out how to wrap their chests, so the earliest shirts appeared, a shirt between underwear and a vest, or a vest.

The early shirt collar, like the lotus sleeves, was a standard feature of the upper class and the aesthetics of that era.

Queen Elizabeth's exaggerated RUFF (also called ruff collar) is the most representative product. It is a pleated collar that is used by both gentlemen and ladies.

Starting from it, European collars began to evolve.

The more famous ones that are still in use today include Barrymore, Buster Brown, shawl collar, fake collar, private school collar, clergyman collar, sailor collar, lotus leaf collar, Van Dyke, and also include what Little John said. Tepan collar.

Strictly speaking, the Peter Pan collar is a variation of the Buster Brown collar.

The two have the same wide and flat crew neck, but there are some differences in size.

Yes, that's right.

Peter Pan's collar is round, not pointed at all.Because when the famous Broadway actor Maude Adams played Peter Pan in 1905, she wore this modified crew neck. This variant of the collar was named after Peter Pan, which naturally proved its popularity in the fashion world at that time. What a sensation it caused.

Long before this simple and elegant collar was used in women's clothing, it was more commonly used in men's suit shirts.

The "baby collar" recognized in the fashion industry refers to the Buster Brown collar. The reason why it is called this name and is linked to "baby" is because its popularity began in 1902 after the funny comic "BUSTER BROWN". Appeared again in the horror film "Rosemary's Baby".

<divclass="contentadv">But whether it is a Peter Pan collar or a Buster Brown collar, they immediately aroused the cheers of the female community after they began to be used in women's clothing.

The round and full design arc exerts a wonderful effect on women's clothing.

Whether worn outside or inside, it can reduce age, be cute and add intellectual charm.

Pair it with a round-neck umbrella skirt or mini skirt, and it will give people a straight-looking look like a boy.Putting it on a shirt can also remove the dull and dull sense of sight.

And we have to admit that this kind of collar is very suitable for European women with broad shoulders. The flat round collar extending along the neck line can have the greatest modification effect, making the strong back and waist exude a pure and charming feeling.

So it does make sense for Little John to say that Xiangyang is "cheating" to a certain extent.

"I've said before that there is nothing to design for men's clothes." Xiangyang jokingly put aside Little John's sketch and said with a smile, "As for the drawings you made, I don't even have to use my brain. I just draw two strokes. come out.

And more importantly."

Xiang Yang said, paused, and glanced at Little John.

"What's the key?" Little John asked, suppressing his anger.

"Tsk, tsk, tsk." Xiang Yang sighed helplessly and said, "The key is that after I draw this thing, I am embarrassed to show it to others, let alone point to it to make money like you."

"You wait for me."

Faced with Xiang Yang's humiliation, the aggrieved Little John picked up his design drawings, and quickly left Xiang Yang's office after letting out a sigh of dissatisfaction.

When he came to the office area and stood in front of his desk, he dropped his sketch on the desk with a bang.With one sound, Sarah, who was not far from him, could feel the anger on his body.

"What's wrong with you two?" Sarah spoke first.

"It's nothing." Little John took a deep breath and comforted himself: A boss should be generous. A boss should be generous.

After recovering for a moment, a smile appeared on Little John's face again. He glanced sideways at Sarah and said:

"When you help Xiang Yang look for information, don't forget to prepare a few ostrich feather headdresses."

"Ah, if you don't remind me, I will forget it."

Sarah was stunned when she heard this, and then understood.

During the brief exchange between the two downstairs, Sarah had already learned from Little John that Xiang Yang was preparing the costume design for "Downton Park", so he arranged for her to find some information on accessories from the Victorian era.

In England, for a long time after World War II, when women entered the palace to see the Queen of England, they had to wear an ostrich feather headdress on their head.

If they are not familiar with the etiquette of European aristocrats, few people will pay attention to the important matching of women except wigs.

Although Xiangyang did not arrange for her to do this work, Little John's reminder would undoubtedly make her performance more outstanding, so Sarah immediately showed a knowing smile and thanked:

"thank you."

"You're welcome, I'll remind you if there are some things you need." Little John raised his lips and thought proudly: You are just like the stupid ostrich inside. No, you are much more cost-effective than him.

No salary required, just a cup of coffee, haha.

"Okay, thank you for helping me," Sarah said with a smile, "To be honest, I'm quite worried that I won't be able to do it well."

For Little John, everyone in the office knew that you could trust him with anything except focusing on his own job.

However, his shortcomings are obvious.

But as long as you get used to it, you will feel comfortable getting along with them.

"A handbag is a short strap made of beads that is worn on the hand. At that time, British aristocratic ladies did not carry any money with them. When buying things, they would send the bill directly home, just like how we swipe a credit card."

Seeing that Sarah was listening very seriously, Little John naturally showed off his knowledge reserve, "There are also white socks. The socks at that time were all colored, and they were as charming as black silk.

When you have nothing to do, you can go to the museum and look at the paintings of that period, which will be of great help to you. "

"Okay, thank you." Sarah smiled and thanked her again.

After being thanked by Sarah, Little John scratched his hair and said, "How about I treat you to lunch at noon and treat it as your reward."

"How about I invite you? After all, I can learn a lot by helping you."

"Hey, why are you so polite?" Little John smiled: "Xiang said, as long as it's not too much, he'll pay for it."

After saying that, Little John took out Xiangyang's VISA card from under his draft and said proudly.

Upon hearing what Little John said, Sarah nodded, "Well, let me think about it."

"If you want something expensive, we don't have to be polite to Xiang, haha."

This chapter involves a lot of clothing elements, I will post the pictures as soon as possible, thank you.