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Once the observation is complete, start recording the measurements.

First, take photos to record details, keep files, and draw utensil disease maps and outlines;

To write it down is to record the size, detail, damaged surface, etc. in the inpainting tool.

Correctly measure and record the basic information of cultural relics, such as size, material, weight, texture, etc.

Afterwards, during the restoration of cultural relics, the characteristics, characteristics and difficulties encountered in the work must be recorded in detail every day, and the work log and summary should be done well.

When the repair is really started, the first thing is to clean up. At this time, the principle of "less intervention, no intervention" must be adhered to.

Wipe with clean water and alcohol with a cotton swab first;

Or use an ultrasonic scaler to remove the surface of the bronze dowry utensils and the soil on the stubble as soon as possible.

Among them, harmful substances such as light green copper chloride, bright pink green hot white cuprous chloride, and "bronze disease" containing powdery rust must be removed.

Cleaned up and started stitching.

After the overall observation and judgment of splicing, the fragments are pre-spliced, that is, splicing from the big to the small, and trying to assemble one by one until a suitable position is found.

After the splicing is completed, it is naturally welded.

Soldering requires great skill.

Welding is a very important part of restoring broken bronzes to perfection.

This is the need for a set of handy tools, more commonly used tools, electric soldering iron, solder is one of the necessary tools for welding.

The advantage of the electric soldering iron is that it heats up quickly and has a high temperature, which is suitable for larger utensils with large volume and thick walls;

The disadvantage is that the operation is difficult and time-consuming.

The advantage of the electric soldering iron is that it is easy to use, plug and play;

The disadvantage is that the temperature is relatively low, and the heat is quickly transferred to thick and large objects, and the welding strength is not enough.

The whole welding process is relatively simple.

Generally, electric soldering iron is used for repairing. The solder used for bronze welding is not pure tin but tin-lead alloy.

Among them, tin accounts for 62% and lead accounts for 38%. The melting point of solder should be about [-] degrees, which is called tin soldering.

This proportion of solder alloy also has properties such as easy melting, fast solidification, and certain strength. It is the best solder for bronze welding.

Flux is an essential material in the soldering process.

In the air, the surface of the bronze is covered by an oxide film, which will prevent the solder from infiltrating the bronze, and the welding will not proceed normally.

When welding the fragments, apply flux to the weld joint.

In this way, the oxide in the welded place is reduced to remove the oxide film.

If the oxide layer is not removed with flux, there will be a phenomenon of virtual welding, and a reliable ohmic connection cannot be guaranteed;

In addition, the flux can also clean the welding bead, promote the flow of solder to assist heat conduction, reduce the surface tension of the material to be welded, remove oil and increase the welding area, and prevent re-oxidation.

Fluxes commonly used in repairs include rosin and zinc chloride solution (water).

In addition, there are other tools that are often used in restoration.

Such as tiles for tin, various pliers, various steel files and double-ended files, grinders, wooden pads of different lengths for support, anti-scalding coarse cloth or gloves, etc.

The traditional restoration method of broken bronzes mostly adopts soldering method.

Try to talk about a method of heating between broken pieces and using tin as a binder to make them complete.

Solder is used as the solder and heated by an electric soldering iron to butt-weld the copper ware, and the broken sections of the copper ware are joined (matched to the ballast).

The port weld must be filed with a new metal surface to form a new weld (file weld).

Welding of broken ballast can be divided into four methods: electric welding (skip welding), continuous welding, surfacing welding, and additional strong parts.

The missing parts are repaired with copper skin, and copper tires are made to make up.

This technique is commonly known as the copper beating method. The traditional hammering process and forging embryo technology are all part of the process.

Using the symmetry of the copperware, draw a rough outline with a piece of hard paper at the corresponding part of the incomplete, cut out the paper pattern, paste it on a copper plate with the same thickness as the wall, and cut out the shape.

After it is burnt red, it can be beaten, and it can be beaten many times.

Or use polymer materials to supplement the supplementary parts, which is a commonly used method in today's restoration work.

Turn over the silicone rubber mold or plaster mold first, and then use resin as the mold to fill in the incomplete parts.

FRP is supplemented in layers, and the inner and outer layers are lined with copper wire mesh or nylon mesh, which can be reinforced and hardened to prevent deformation.

I want to use copper repair agent basically in the repair. It does not flow during use, cures quickly, has no pits after curing, is easy to engrave on the surface, and has a copper metal color. The effect is very good.

After the copper tonic is dry, first grind it into a large shape.

Then use sandpaper of various grit and fineness to sand until smooth.

Refer to the surrounding patterns, first draw the missing pattern with a pencil, and then use a sander to outline the pattern decoration.

Here, coloring is also required, that is, rusting.

The traditional method of coloring generally uses mineral pigments.

Replenishment of bronze ware, coloring on the surface of cultural relics with textures such as tin-lead, epoxy glue, and copper tonic.

This method can be used, mainly using shellac prepared from relatively viscous paint flakes and adding various mineral pigments to make rust color by layering.

You can also make the utensil shell first, and finally use the spot mud method to make the mottled rust layer.

Commonly used mineral pigments include earth yellow, stone yellow, pine smoke, ultramarine blue, titanium dioxide, laterite, sand green and more than 20 kinds of pigments.

Then there is the old-fashioned process, which is also different.

Before making it old, first use fine sandpaper to polish the surface of the patch to be smooth and flat.

Then use absorbent cotton to dip in ferric chloride aqueous solution, and the substance is a blocky yellow medicine.

Soak it in water first and put it in a bottle. It is corrosive, so be careful not to splash it on your clothes.

After it is applied on the surface of tin filling, it will turn black immediately after application.

Then use absorbent cotton dipped in clean water to wipe off the excess liquid on the surface of the device.

After it dries, apply a layer of shellac juice with the pad pen to enhance the adhesion of the color on the surface of the device.

Mineral pigments can be ground finer and used as a palette on tiles.

For the first pass, put a little sand green on the corner of the tile.

Add a little titanium dioxide and ultramarine blue, drop shellac juice to blend into light green.

Use a row of pens on the surface of the utensils, smear twice, and the color should be evenly covered.

Be sure to apply it once and wait for it to dry before applying it a second time.

Then adjust it to off-white, use pine smoke and add a little cornstarch.

Use a toothbrush dipped in the coloring, holding the toothbrush dipped in the coloring in one hand.

With the other hand, use the spatula to move the toothbrush, and flick the color on the coloring place.

Use the same method to make maroon, earthy, and blue-green juices for coloring.

According to the background of the surrounding colors, call out similar color juices and pluck the scattered points, and dial out one color.

Wait for it to dry before doing another color.

The colors should overlap and coordinate naturally.

Now that there is coloring, it must be aged. The traditional method of aging is the soil rust method.

There are various methods of rusting.

Generally, the fine loess is mixed with clear water to make a thin mud, and then the mud is dipped with a toothbrush.